Car mechanics forum - help!

[centaur]

If you intend to keep the car for any length of time, I'd get a Haynes manual for it. Most of us are capable of very basic car DIY providing we know where to look and what to do.

The fuel shutoff solenoid is pretty obvious and is just screwed into the body of the pump, so you only need a suitably sized spanner to undo and replace it. The glowplug solenoid will be mounted on the main fuseboard or possibly somewhere adjacent and again it's normally a straightforward pull off and plug new one in arrangement..no tools needed.
I'd buy the bits from your Ford dealer to be sure of either getting the right ones, or at least being able to exchange them if they give you the wrong bits in error. I'd do just the fuel shutoff solenoid first and do the other one later, if that doesn't solve the problem.

Basically, if you feel confident enough to tackle these very basic steps...go for it

[clandestine]

Sorry for the thread creep, but seeing as there are people on here who seem to know a thing or two about Diesel engines, I was wondering if you could help me with the following. If you have suggestions for another forum on which to post this then please send that too:

1999 British-registered Ford Focus Diesel
124000 miles

I've just purchased this car used from colleague whom I trust. Lately though, as I'm driving, accelerating in second, third or fourth gear, the engine just revvs back down to idle for now apparent reason. At the same time, the glow plug light indicator (the one with the filament coil) flashes. No other lights come on (not even the engine management light). No strange noises are heard. The only cure to this is to simply swith the engine off and back on again. Sometimes the problem happens every 3 minutes, but I've also gone 80 miles without anything happening all day.

I've taken the car to a mechanic. They've done a diagnostic scan but have found nothing. They admit there's a problem as they drove the car and experienced the fault themselves. They now recommend that I take the car to a Ford dealer here in England. I'll do that but it's quite expensive so I was wondering whether someone might have an idea of what the problem is.

Thanks.

Originally Posted by glider26

i think that the glow plug timer relay may be malfunctioning.i had a simular problem with ford mondeo with the same engine and that was the problem.i traced the circuit with a wiring diagram and its all linked in with the cold start system,the fuel pump over fuels from cold for a few seconds in time with the heater plugs.its all triggered off by the temp sensor which also may be worth checking out as i have had problems with that too.you will need a multimeter to check the resistance between the 2 terminals and should record around 0,5 ohms, if not its faulty.if your lucky enough to know someone with the same car you could try swaping the relay and see if the problem migrates to that vehicle.if not i would try a breakers yard as these are very expensive parts for it not to be the problem.a decent auto elec should be able to test it though.
hope you get it sorted anyway

[centaur]

I don't think so somehow. Overfuelling will usually just give 'lumpy' running and lots of black smoke, but it doesn't usually cut off the motor. Cutting off a diesel engine requires NO fuel coming in, or totally blocking the airflow so it has no ability to burn any fuel.
On balance, I'd stick with the fuel cutoff solenoid initially.

[clandestine]

I don't think so somehow. Overfuelling will usually just give 'lumpy' running and lots of black smoke, but it doesn't usually cut off the motor. Cutting off a diesel engine requires NO fuel coming in, or totally blocking the airflow so it has no ability to burn any fuel.
On balance, I'd stick with the fuel cutoff solenoid initially.

Originally Posted by centaur

i think you need to read the thread properly tbh.it doesn't cut out.

[centaur]

Yes, you're right, I misread the original post. The engine seems to ignore the throttle instruction and just reverts to idle mode.
Either way though, it suggests a fuel or air restriction, rather than excess fuelling.
That being the case, it's unlikely to be the fuel shutoff solenoid....as this either sticks open or closed.

Quite possibly then, it may be a faulty sensor or ECU .....time to refer it to a competent auto electrician I think.

[glider26]

Thank-you Clandestine and Centaur,

I'll follow your advice and take it to an auto elec. I looked them up on Yell.co.uk but I couldn't find that exact description; all I got was "garage services". My postcode is W13, so if you've got a suggestion of where to take it that'd be great, otherwise I'll just take it to Ford but they've been quite cr*p at returning my calls and taking a booking.

Anyway thanks for the diagnostic, I'll take that with me to the electrician.

Glider

[glider26]

And finally... I'm thinking about changing the glow plug relay just to try that in case it's faulty. What's a good web site to get a 99 Ford Focus Diesel glow plug relay in the UK? I have the part reference: F80B-14B192-AA but I couldn't find anything.

[centaur]

I really wouldn't bother doing that. From your description earlier it seems the car starts ok from cold and doesn't run on after switch off.
It won't hurt to exchange it, but if it didn't need doing it's just money wasted which you may need for the REAL fault

[clandestine]

I really wouldn't bother doing that. From your description earlier it seems the car starts ok from cold and doesn't run on after switch off.
It won't hurt to exchange it, but if it didn't need doing it's just money wasted which you may need for the REAL fault

Originally Posted by centaur

what would you suggest is the problem?

i have already said it may not be the timer relay, but has been the problem for me in the past.if he can get one cheap enough its worth a shot imo.also the temp sensor is a cheap item to eliminate,a good auto lec would be able to trace each compontent in turn and check it out properly.obviously its not a fault that scanner will pick up so this is the only way forward tbh.

[clandestine]

Thank-you Clandestine and Centaur,

I'll follow your advice and take it to an auto elec. I looked them up on Yell.co.uk but I couldn't find that exact description; all I got was "garage services". My postcode is W13, so if you've got a suggestion of where to take it that'd be great, otherwise I'll just take it to Ford but they've been quite cr*p at returning my calls and taking a booking.

Anyway thanks for the diagnostic, I'll take that with me to the electrician.

Glider

Originally Posted by glider26

i can't suggest a good auto lec in your area but you may find some help on here:
http://www.ffoc.co.uk/

[centaur]

what would you suggest is the problem?

i have already said it may not be the timer relay, but has been the problem for me in the past.if he can get one cheap enough its worth a shot imo.also the temp sensor is a cheap item to eliminate,a good auto lec would be able to trace each compontent in turn and check it out properly.obviously its not a fault that scanner will pick up so this is the only way forward tbh.

Originally Posted by clandestine

As I said in post #35, it's probably one of the sensors affecting the fuelling. This may therefore be anything from the TPS, the Lambda, the Temperature, the air mass sensor or the ECU......ALL reasons to get a competent auto 'leccie to have a look

I don't quite follow the logic of the Glowplug timer/relay since it's only function is to leave the glowplugs on long enough for a cold start, so unless it's having some odd 'shorting' effect on some other wiring, it seems unlikely.

[clandestine]

As I said in post #35, it's probably one of the sensors affecting the fuelling. This may therefore be anything from the TPS, the Lambda, the Temperature, the air mass sensor or the ECU......ALL reasons to get a competent auto 'leccie to have a look

I don't quite follow the logic of the Glowplug timer/relay since it's only function is to leave the glowplugs on long enough for a cold start, so unless it's having some odd 'shorting' effect on some other wiring, it seems unlikely.

Originally Posted by centaur

so a faulty tps or mass air flow sensor will bring on the glow plug light would it? i'm sorry but i dont quite follow that logic either.also scanner would probably pick that up anyway.

[centaur]

Oddly enough, I'd like to know that too...now where did I leave that 'leccie'.... ?

[vonrikety]

The frontera is dead.
it was scrapped yesterday but i did however find the fault. the injectors were fuelling straight into the engine as i thought and after two face fulls of fuel i eventually was able to track down the fault. it was being caused by the fuel pump relay located down near the n/s headlamp i disconected this the fuel pump storred and she ran for a couple of minuites but due to lack of time and cold weather i decided to call it a day and seperated her from her alloys and took her to be reserected as a dish washer may she rest in peace. thanks to everyone who helped much appreciated and if anyone ever experiences the same fault you know where to start. thanks again much appreciated..
Paul..

[wilberforce]

On the subject of cars 'dying' I had an interesting one this evening on the way home.

I have a 53reg tdci Focus with 40K on the clock, fully serviced by Fords 'finest'

Stopped at a set of lights and pulled away on the green, only for the engine to stop with no arning at all. Cranked it a couple of times but no joy, so pushed it out of the way 'uphill'! Called the breakdown guys who turned up after 45mins and moved it somewhere safer. Then tried to start it and guess what, it fired up. The breakdown guy followed me the few miles home only for it to happen again. I was doing 30 at the time on a near relaxed throttle. The glow plug indicator light started to flash as well.

Anyone here got any ideas, oh, and guess when the warranty expired, yes, about 5 days ago!!

[centaur]

We may get some 'feedback' from Glider when he gets his Focus fixed. You problem sounds very similar.

[tutankarmum]

Hi

Could you please help me with a problem I have with my M Reg VW Golf 1400.

The problem when it starts it is very sluggish. It ticks over ok when I get it started but as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator the revs go right down and it stops and will not start again and will only fire up if I keep the key turning. I called the AA out and was told it may be the head gasket, if this is the case, can you tell me if it is hard to change, or how much would a garage charge to do the job.

Regards


tutankarmum

[clandestine]

Hi

Could you please help me with a problem I have with my M Reg VW Golf 1400.

The problem when it starts it is very sluggish. It ticks over ok when I get it started but as soon as I put my foot on the accelerator the revs go right down and it stops and will not start again and will only fire up if I keep the key turning. I called the AA out and was told it may be the head gasket, if this is the case, can you tell me if it is hard to change, or how much would a garage charge to do the job.

Regards


tutankarmum

Originally Posted by tutankarmum

my first instinct is throttle position sensor fault to be honest.that engine is usually bullet proof and i find it hard to believe that the head gasket has gone.having said that i havent seen the car so i could be wrong,i would seek a second opinion if i were you.

[wilberforce]

Re my comment about the Focus dying!

My local dealer has identified a cam sensor failure, code = P0340PCM or it could have been P0390PCM, they couldn't read the technicians writing.

Cost to repair £66.60 with poss more discount to follow.

[clandestine]

Re my comment about the Focus dying!

My local dealer has identified a cam sensor failure, code = P0340PCM or it could have been P0390PCM, they couldn't read the technicians writing.

Cost to repair £66.60 with poss more discount to follow.

Originally Posted by wilberforce

the first one is cam shaft sensor(bank 1) the other is (bank 2).the tech should have wiped the code then road tested it to see if it comes back to make sure this is the problem and not an old code thats been there a while.
young tech's have a habbit of jumping to conclusions, so make sure the bill is itemised and is clear what work was carried out.
price seems about right

[Randy]

I have a 1991 Firebird and it has 220,000 miles on it. V-6.

At random times the car won't start right away. I have to keep turning the ignition to get it to choke and turn over. It usually does after about 20 minutes of trying. if I let it sit it'll start right up (like overnight). But 2 days ago I took it in to get a new muffler and it started fine when I took it in, and when the guy drove it in the shop. When I got back, he said the car wasn't starting and that he looked at the engine and noticed it was flooding itself whenever he tried to start. He took the fuel injectors off for a moment, and it'd start and burn the fuel it had in it, then die. Once he plugged them back in however, he claimed it would not start.

I've been going out there trying to start it, and if it does start, it's a really heavy start. To be more descriptive, instead of a vroom vroom, its more like a doonk doonk doonk doonk, with the engine shaking really bad. That was yesterday. Today it will not even do that. It won't turn over at all, and there IS an oil leak, albeit a minor one.

I really need to get this car into working order. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? Thanks ahead of time.

[clandestine]

I have a 1991 Firebird and it has 220,000 miles on it. V-6.

At random times the car won't start right away. I have to keep turning the ignition to get it to choke and turn over. It usually does after about 20 minutes of trying. if I let it sit it'll start right up (like overnight). But 2 days ago I took it in to get a new muffler and it started fine when I took it in, and when the guy drove it in the shop. When I got back, he said the car wasn't starting and that he looked at the engine and noticed it was flooding itself whenever he tried to start. He took the fuel injectors off for a moment, and it'd start and burn the fuel it had in it, then die. Once he plugged them back in however, he claimed it would not start.

I've been going out there trying to start it, and if it does start, it's a really heavy start. To be more descriptive, instead of a vroom vroom, its more like a doonk doonk doonk doonk, with the engine shaking really bad. That was yesterday. Today it will not even do that. It won't turn over at all, and there IS an oil leak, albeit a minor one.

I really need to get this car into working order. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? Thanks ahead of time.

Originally Posted by Randy

your not american by any chance are you?...

i'm assuming that this car is fuel injected,so with that in mind i would tend to focus my attention on the ignition side of things.have the spark plugs and h.t leads been replaced recently?.....if your not getting a good spark then it wont burn the fuel,so i would replace those first.
also i would check the distributer cap for cracks and moisture inside and change the rotor arm(assuming it has a distributer and not coil packs),ive never really worked on that vehicle so i'm unfamiliar with the layout but i would start there anyway.

[centaur]

I have a 1991 Firebird and it has 220,000 miles on it. V-6.

At random times the car won't start right away. I have to keep turning the ignition to get it to choke and turn over. It usually does after about 20 minutes of trying. if I let it sit it'll start right up (like overnight). But 2 days ago I took it in to get a new muffler and it started fine when I took it in, and when the guy drove it in the shop. When I got back, he said the car wasn't starting and that he looked at the engine and noticed it was flooding itself whenever he tried to start. He took the fuel injectors off for a moment, and it'd start and burn the fuel it had in it, then die. Once he plugged them back in however, he claimed it would not start.

I've been going out there trying to start it, and if it does start, it's a really heavy start. To be more descriptive, instead of a vroom vroom, its more like a doonk doonk doonk doonk, with the engine shaking really bad. That was yesterday. Today it will not even do that. It won't turn over at all, and there IS an oil leak, albeit a minor one.

I really need to get this car into working order. Any ideas as to what the problem could be? Thanks ahead of time.

Originally Posted by Randy

Looking at your description of why your car won't start, it appears that it's because the fuel injectors are 'overfuelling'. Perhaps you should seek advice from an auto electrician on the causes......soething like the coolant temperature sensor or similar.

[Synchro]

Hi everyone.

I have a problem with a RHD 1996 Mk 4 Ford Fiesta 1.25L Zetec SE petrol. There is a hissing sound coming from around the brake pedal which increases when the brakes are applied. My first thought was that the servo was failing however the servo, which is mounted on the near-side, appears to be working and I have not noticed any braking degradation apart from the brakes tended to be a little fierce when applied while moving slowly but that is no longer present. I first noticed a faint hissing when the pedal was depressed after I had renewed the rear brake pipes, (coincidence?). The last few months the hissing is present all the time the engine is running. I have looked in the Haynes manual but cannot find a reference and also searched the net and discovered one other person with a similar problem. It was suggested that it may be related to the climate control. Like the other person there is no CC in this car. I would appreciate hearing from someone with an idea as to what is causing the hiss and hopefully a solution. TIA.

[clandestine]

Hi everyone.

I have a problem with a RHD 1996 Mk 4 Ford Fiesta 1.25L Zetec SE petrol. There is a hissing sound coming from around the brake pedal which increases when the brakes are applied. My first thought was that the servo was failing however the servo, which is mounted on the near-side, appears to be working and I have not noticed any braking degradation apart from the brakes tended to be a little fierce when applied while moving slowly but that is no longer present. I first noticed a faint hissing when the pedal was depressed after I had renewed the rear brake pipes, (coincidence?). The last few months the hissing is present all the time the engine is running. I have looked in the Haynes manual but cannot find a reference and also searched the net and discovered one other person with a similar problem. It was suggested that it may be related to the climate control. Like the other person there is no CC in this car. I would appreciate hearing from someone with an idea as to what is causing the hiss and hopefully a solution. TIA.

Originally Posted by Synchro

sounds like a cracked srevo pipe to me,or an air pipe off around the inlet manifould.you will notice a change in the hissing when you press the brake as the servo comands most of the vaccume.its difficult to tell though without seeing the car.
try using a piece of rubber hose about 3foot long,put one end to your ear and the other end around the area you suspect whilst the engine is running.this will isolate the source as a vaccume leak can sound like its coming from anywhere.
good luck,hope ive been some help.

[Synchro]

Hi Clandestine

Thank you for replying I will try your suggestion this weekend and let you know what I find.

[Synchro]

Hi Clandestine

I listened from inside the car through a short length of hose placed close to the pushrod connection on the brake pedal and confirmed the origin of the noise. In the engine compartment I checked the condition of all vacuum pipes and connections and listened for leaks. On closer inspection I found the rubber grommet that the brake push rod passes through had become dislodged from the bulkhead, it was a simple job to refit and I can no longer hear the hissing noise when inside the car.

In my original post I mentioned that it was possibly a coincidence that I noticed the noise after renewing the rear brake pipes. It’s most likely the grommet became dislodged whilst the braking system was being bled.

Thank you for taking time to answer my query and helping me solve this problem.

[sidevalve]

Hi Just joined and was looking at the comment on using molyslip G in a Power steering top up tank,
sad to say that Molyslip G should not be used in power steering,
auto transmisions, limited slip diffs and semi auto trans

It is a great product but there are places where you need a little friction and I am amazed your dealer or service garage would mix it with TQF or Dextron 2

take a look at Crewchiefs-pitstop-molyslip-shop this will explain the type of molyslip that can be used I only hope he used the correct one

SV:

[barby]

If you intend to keep the car for any length of time, I'd get a Haynes manual for it. Most of us are capable of very basic car DIY providing we know where to look and what to do.

The fuel shutoff solenoid is pretty obvious and is just screwed into the body of the pump, so you only need a suitably sized spanner to undo and replace it. The glowplug solenoid will be mounted on the main fuseboard or possibly somewhere adjacent and again it's normally a straightforward pull off and plug new one in arrangement..no tools needed.
I'd buy the bits from your Ford dealer to be sure of either getting the right ones, or at least being able to exchange them if they give you the wrong bits in error. I'd do just the fuel shutoff solenoid first and do the other one later, if that doesn't solve the problem.

Basically, if you feel confident enough to tackle these very basic steps...go for it

Originally Posted by centaur

i'm breaking into this thread because when registering with the forum I found my self going round in circles, hope you guys can help!!!
I've just bought a Peugot 306 which has an intermittent fault ie.. it loses power when under load ie..changing gear or revving. Some have suggested petrol starvation. Had diagnostic checks which failed to settle the problem.
All ideas welcome. Look forward to replies
Cheers Barb

[gb9vs]

Has anyone got any experiance with mondeo tdci 130 problems??
I have a 2003 tdci 130 which has decided to play up again, i say again as its now done 75k but at 35k she had the full injection system, pumps, fuel rail, tank etc replaced due to the delphini pump rotors shredding, then at 65k she had the cam sensor fault.
Those were simple failiers as both through up the coil light and the engine cut out, refused to start etc.
Now she has developed a new problem. I am getting what feels like a serious missfire at low load. Its not the standered missfire issue at 1800/2000 rpm as it can happen from 1500 to 2600 rpm and seems engine load orientated. Try cruising in traffic at 40mph and she kicks like a mule, drop to 35 or up to 45 and she is fine. But you can come over the brow of a hill at 65 and chugga chugga as the engine comes off load. No coil light, no cutting out, no starting issues, no loss of power, but she is pumping out alot of crap from the exhaust and started drinking fuel.
I know a faulty air mass sensor can throw out the injector programing but that should register a fault and light up the coil lamp, so i'm thinking along the lines of a failing throttle position sensor, just as she comes out of the " missfire " zone she surges about 200 rpm, mines a tip auto so the box smooths it out but you see it on the rev meter. 43mph, low load cruising on level road and she pumps from 2000 to 2200 rpm.
I had a fault code reading done but nothing so its not a totally failed sensor.
Ford have suggested a software upgrade and full reprogram of all injectors but then they want £180 to do it and from what i have read about software upgrades i'm not sure i want to go that route.
Any sensible suggestions would be appreciated.